After getting ourselves spoilt rotten in Brazil, it is only natural that we were only a little worried and anxious to return to Bolivia. The memories of tough road condition and high-altitude sickness were still too fresh to recount. Well, like it or not, we found ourselves back at Bolivia’s door step.
And we were so not ready.
First, we were told at the border that contrary to our research information, the infamous “death trains” from the border town Quijarro to Santa Cruz no longer take motorcycle cargo. “The rules recently changed.” So they used to, but they don’t any more. Fantastic. So no train break for us, off the road we went.
The road to Santa Cruz turned out to be much better than originally informed: 640 km new and empty asphalt except for only some 40 km dirt road remaining.
We had an early start from San Jose heading to Santa Cruz on our second day in Bolivia, bearing in mind that this is raining season, and we were driving through parts of Pantanal, one of world’s biggest swamp, and a most beautiful one at it.
Off to an easy start…
Dirt road started…
Road condition quickly deteriorated with lorries and mud…
Then there were muddy puddles. Time for Q to shine…
And I enjoyed the pretty scenery…
Then there were rain showers: on and off, on and off… Quite refreshing!
And of course herds of cows were having their parade.
Just as the end of the dirt road drew close, tragedy striked: we hit a pothole and the impact broke off our right pannier (luggage case) frame…
Luck had it that the closest village didn’t have any electricity, so for the next half an hour, I had a little taste of what Casa bears every day: I sat and held the hefty right pannier on my right leg while Q tried to drive and look for soldering equipment.
Unfortunately there was no photo evidence of my heroic struggle against strong wind, protecting our pannier from getting blown off. But trust me, when we finally pulled into the village, I could tell everyone thought it was impressive.
The mechanic and Q managed to work through lunch and got the frame repaired.
Right after a quick lunch, we were back on the road where the pigs, cows, dogs, snakes, horses and vultures were only too happy to greet us!
Never underestimate how adventurous a trip in Bolivia can be. Even if it is only 40 km of dirt road.
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